So, you're a beginner, you have a new hobby, and you're diving into the wonderful world of DIY cosmetics! You have your beakers, spatulas, a passion for natural ingredients, and a desire to create something truly special for your skin. But looking at the dizzying variety of oils and butters — jojoba, argan, shea, cocoa, rosehip... — where do you start? Let's figure out how to build your perfect “oil wardrobe”.
Comedogenicity: don't be afraid, get informed
You have probably heard the term “comedogenic” — a fancy word for the likelihood that an ingredient might clog your pores. For a long time, this concept caused a lot of fear in the DIY community, leading many to avoid perfectly good ingredients.
It's a scale, not a “yes/no”
A rating from 0 to 5. Zero means the probability of clogging pores is extremely low, 5 means it is very high. Most oils fall in the 0–3 range, which is perfectly acceptable for most people.
Individual results vary
Ratings are often based on laboratory studies (poor albino rabbits with their delicate ears!). What clogs pores for one person is perfectly fine for another.
Concentration matters
A highly comedogenic oil can be safe in a small concentration within a blend or if it is washed off quickly. Don't write off an oil based solely on its rating — context is key.
Don't be afraid — get informed
Don't let comedogenicity dictate all your decisions, especially if you have dry or normal skin. Be careful if you are prone to acne and always perform a patch test.
Skin feel: light, rich, or medium?
Beyond the potential for clogging pores, how an oil feels on the skin is crucial. This is related to its absorption rate and texture. Some oils vanish in seconds, while others leave a rich protective film.
Type | Feel | For whom | Examples |
|---|---|---|---|
🪶 Light / “Dry” | Absorb quickly, no greasy residue | Daytime formulas, oily skin | Jojoba, grapeseed, squalane, hazelnut |
⚖️ Medium | A balance of nourishment and comfort, soft supple finish | Normal skin, universal | Argan, sweet almond, apricot kernel, sunflower |
🧈 Rich | Heavy, occlusive, protective barrier | Very dry skin, night creams, balms | Avocado, olive, shea, cocoa |
Oxidation and stability: keeping it fresh
Natural oils are wonderful, but they can go rancid (oxidise) over time. This not only smells unpleasant but also creates free radicals that damage the skin. Understanding oil stability will help you store and use them correctly.
Highly stable (long shelf life)
Higher content of saturated and monounsaturated fats. Examples: jojoba (a wax ester, incredibly stable), coconut, meadowfoam seed oil, shea, cocoa.
Less stable (short shelf life)
Higher content of polyunsaturated fatty acids (Omega-3, Omega-6). Very beneficial, but require care. Examples: rosehip, flaxseed, evening primrose, borage.
Rule: oils in the formula → an antioxidant is a must! Just as a preservative is mandatory when water is present, an antioxidant is mandatory when oils are present.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol): 0.5–1% of the oil weight, add to the oil phase
Storage: dark airtight bottles, away from heat and sunlight. Delicate oils — in the fridge
Freshness: buy in small quantities for 6–12 months. We’ve all been there and thrown away rancid oils!
Oil wardrobe by skin type
Just as we choose clothes — let’s build an oil wardrobe! These are starting points, but don’t forget to experiment and listen to your skin.
🏜️ Dry and mature skin
You need saturated, nourishing, and occlusive ingredients to restore the barrier and reduce moisture loss. Focus on slower-absorbing oils.
Oil | Type | Comedogenicity | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
Avocado | Saturated | 2–3 | Rich in vitamins A, D, E. Very nourishing |
Olive | Saturated | 3 | Classic, deeply moisturising |
Argan | Medium | 0 | Balance of saturation and absorption, high in vitamin E |
Rosehip | Medium (unstable!) | 1 | Regeneration, fine lines. Small %, antioxidant is a must |
Shea (karite) | Butter | 0–2 | Ultra-saturated, moisturising, soothing |
Cocoa | Butter | 4 ⚠️ | Protective barrier. Use with caution if prone to breakouts |
The “Oil Wardrobe” concept for dry skin: 50% medium oil (argan) + 30% saturated (avocado) + 20% butter (shea) + 0.5% vitamin E
⚖️ Normal skin
You have the flexibility to be creative! Aim for a balance of nourishing and moderately absorbing oils.
Oil | Type | Comedogenicity | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
Sweet almond | Medium | 2 | Versatile, gentle, conditioning |
Apricot kernel | Medium | 2 | Easily absorbed, similar to almond |
Sunflower | Lightweight | 0 | Affordable, high in linoleic acid |
Jojoba | Lightweight | 2 | Mimics sebum, excellent emollient |
Mango | Butter | 0–1 | Lighter than shea, very nourishing |
The “Oil Wardrobe” concept for normal skin: 60% medium (almond/apricot) + 30% light (jojoba/sunflower) + 10% butter (mango) + 0.5% vitamin E
💧 Oily and acne-prone skin
Light, fast-absorbing oils that do not clog pores and help balance sebum. Look for oils with a high linoleic acid content.
Oil | Type | Comedogenicity | Features |
|---|---|---|---|
Jojoba | Lightweight | 2 | Wax ester, similar to sebum — “tricks” the skin into producing less oil |
Grapeseed | Lightweight | 1–2 | Very light, fast-absorbing, high in linoleic acid |
Hazelnut | Lightweight | 1 | Astringent properties, balances oiliness |
Squalane | Lightweight | 1 | Exceptionally light, non-comedogenic, derived from olives or sugarcane |
The “Oil Wardrobe” concept for oily skin: 70% light (grapeseed/hazelnut) + 30% balancing (jojoba/squalane). Avoid butters in leave-on facial products. + 0.5% vitamin E
Summary table: oil wardrobe
🏜️ Dry / mature | ⚖️ Normal | 💧 Oily / acne-prone | |
|---|---|---|---|
Light oils | 0% | 30% | 70% |
Medium oils | 50% | 60% | 30% |
Saturated oils | 30% | 0% | 0% |
Butters | 20% | 10% | 0% (or minimal) |
Vitamin E | 0.5% | 0.5% | 0.5% |
Key oils | Argan, avocado, shea | Almond, jojoba, mango | Grape seed, squalane, jojoba |
Happy formulating! The beauty of homemade cosmetics lies in the ability to adapt everything to your exact needs. Don't be afraid to experiment, keep a detailed log of your cream formulas, and most importantly, listen to your skin. With a little knowledge and patience, you'll be creating exquisite, skin-loving blends in no time!
Read also: Climate and plant oils • From kitchen to cosmetics
Oksana Walker
Cosmetic chemist, founder of the Walker Formulation Academy
IFSCC • SCS • IAA • IAC
