Articles in the "Science" category
Preservation of anhydrous products At Walker Formulation Academy, we regularly analyse topics where cosmetic chemists accumulate the most mistakes — and the preservation of anhydrous products is one of them. Is it necessary and how to do it correctly — a methodological analysis for the Formulation Club. Short
Imagine: it's 11 PM, you open your laptop, you don't have access to a supplier database, and the deadline for a new formula is tomorrow morning. In the past, this meant hours spent in stacks of textbooks or desperate searches through forums. Today, some cosmetic chemists simply open ChatGPT — and get a starting for
Oxidation of essential oils in a finished cosmetic product: the invisible enemy of a fresh scent. At the “Walker Formulation Academy” school, we are convinced that understanding chemistry is the foundation of responsible formulation, and the topic of essential oil oxidation in finished cosmetics deserves a separate and honest discussion. Most aromat
What’s on the label — and what’s hidden behind it: a breakdown of cosmetic ingredients. At the Walker Formulation Academy, we are convinced that understanding ingredients is the foundation of a conscious approach to cosmetics, whether you are a consumer or a product formulator. Imagine: you are holding a serum worth three thousand rubles. On the f
Imagine: you’re holding a serum that costs £30. On the front of the packaging, in large letters, it says: “10% niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides.” Something inside you says: this should work. But a cosmetic chemist, looking at that same label, sees a completely different story — and it doesn’t always have a happy ending.
When a formulator first creates an anti-ageing face cream formula, the initial impulse is to add all the best ingredients at once: retinol, vitamin C, peptides, AHA acids, and niacinamide. The logic is clear: the more actives, the more effective the cream. But this is exactly where most formulas quietly "die" — not at the emulsification stage
When a customer picks up a bottle labelled "organic," they expect something clean, safe, and close to nature. But for a formulator, this word represents an entire system of standards, restrictions, and technological solutions that cannot be ignored. Organic cosmetics — what is it from the perspective of
White soaping effect in emulsions: why it occurs and how to prevent it. At Walker Formulation Academy, we are convinced that understanding the physicochemical nature of cosmetic phenomena is the foundation of competent formulation. Today, we are analysing one of the most persistent problems in creating emulsions — the white soaping effect during application. What is
The fridge question — why cold storage doesn't automatically make your emulsion safer At the Walker Formulation Academy, we regularly encounter one of the most persistent myths in DIY skincare — the belief that a refrigerator automatically makes a product safer.<
Preserving clay masks: the science of microbiological control and the role of glycols At the “Walker Formulation Academy” school, we are convinced that a deep understanding of ingredient chemistry is the foundation of professional formulation development, and preserving clay masks is one of the most illustrative examples of how mineral
Analysing the stabilization mechanisms of W/O emulsions.
Xanthan vs. guar gum: charge, rheology, and suspending properties. Experiment: 0.8% guar + 0.2% xanthan = maximum viscosity. Gum synergy, test gel formula at pH 4, and practical recommendations.