Ingredients

Articles in the "Ingredients" category

Superpeptides: how machine learning is changing collagen and skin peptides

When scientists from the University of Manchester and the No7 brand announced the creation of a 'superpeptide', the cosmetic community reacted with mixed feelings: some spoke of a revolution, others of marketing. But behind the loud headlines lies some truly interesting chemistry. We are talking about a fundamentally new approach

9 min20 May 2026

#actives

Ingredients

Neuropeptides in cosmetics: skin peptide reviews, mechanism of action, and formulation

Peptide cosmetics are no longer a niche topic: today, they are one of the fastest-growing segments of active ingredients. But while signal and matrikine peptides are already well-known to cream formulators, neuropeptides — and especially melanocyte-stimulating compounds — remain a gap even for ex

9 min16 May 2026

#actives #stability

Ingredients

Fatty acids in skin oils: how an oil's composition determines its effect in a formula

When a formulator chooses an oil for a formula, the first question is usually: "Is it light or heavy?" But behind this subjective feeling lies precise biochemistry. Fatty acids in skin oils are the molecules that determine everything: absorption rate, oxidative stability, and barrier properties.

9 min10 May 2026

#oils and butters #stability

Ingredients

Emulsifiers in cosmetics: how to choose the right one and not ruin your cream

An emulsifier is the ingredient without which a cream turns into a separated liquid within just 24 hours. It is what holds water and oil together, forms the texture, determines the skin feel, and, in many ways, the stability of the entire formula. Nevertheless, choosing an emulsifier remains one of the most common ch

9 min2 May 2026

#emulsions

Ingredients

Peptide serums for skin: mechanism of action, types, and formulation rules

Peptide serums for skin have long moved beyond being a marketing trend: today, they are one of the most technically complex and, at the same time, effective classes of cosmetic products. For a formulator who wants to work consciously, rather than just “adding a peptide according to instructions”, it is important to understand what they are

8 min28 Apr 2026

#actives #pH

Ingredients

Essential oils for facial skin against wrinkles: chemistry of action and formulation rules

When it comes to anti-ageing cosmetics, essential oils for facial skin against wrinkles occupy a special place: they simultaneously attract with their "naturalness" and raise questions for those who understand chemistry. Can volatile aromatic compounds really influence collagen synthesis, neutral

10 min24 Apr 2026

#oils and butters

Ingredients

Super-peptide for skin: how British scientists rewrote the rules of anti-ageing chemistry

When it comes to the best skin peptide available today, the answer is no longer limited to classic Argireline or Matrixyl. In 2024–2025, a group of scientists from the University of Manchester, in collaboration with the No7 brand team, introduced a matrix super-peptide complex capable of

9 min14 Apr 2026

#actives

Ingredients

Peptides for facial skin in cream: how to choose, how much to add, and why they work

If you have ever studied the ingredients of an anti-ageing cream, you have encountered them — peptides. These short chains of amino acids have become one of the most discussed classes of active ingredients in cosmetic chemistry, and for good reason. A properly selected peptide for facial skin in a cream formula is capable of targeting specific skin concerns.

10 min6 Apr 2026

#actives

Ingredients

Triethyl citrate: how the main active ingredient in natural deodorants works

An in-depth analysis of triethyl citrate (TEC): enzymatic hydrolysis by skin esterases, release of citric acid, and inhibition of odorogenesis. Dosages for sticks, creams, and sprays, compatibility with baking soda and magnesia, and 4 ready-to-use formulas.

14 min2 Mar 2026

#actives #oils and butters

Ingredients

Polymorphism of butters: why cocoa butter is temperamental and how to work with it

We explore why melted cocoa butter can become brittle, crumbly, or develop a whitish bloom after cooling. How α, β', and β crystal forms affect the texture, stability, and skin feel of your butters and balms — and how proper tempering solves most problems.

12 min2 Mar 2026

#oils and butters

Ingredients

Azelaic acid: calm skin without 'pilling' — a formulation guide

Complete guide to formulating with azelaic acid: mechanism of action, pH window, solubility, 5 strategies to combat pilling, ready-to-use cream formulas.

20 min25 Feb 2026

#actives

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