Ingredients

Articles in the "Ingredients" category

Detox peptides: how skin fights urban stress and why it needs help

Every morning, when you leave the house, your skin starts a war. Not metaphorically — literally. PM2.5 particles, ozone, exhaust fumes, UV radiation, blue light from screens. By evening, the barrier function is weakened, the proteasome system is overloaded, and the level of carbonylated proteins in the epidermis is noticeably higher than in the morning.

9 min26 Jun 2026

Ingredients

Emulsifiers and cream texture: what is actually happening inside your moisturizer

Have you ever applied a cream and wondered: why is it like this? Not 'good' or 'bad' — but specifically like this: slightly greasy, or almost weightless, or one that disappears in three seconds, leaving a silky feeling. Behind this is not marketing and not a 'unique formula'. Behind this is one class of ingredients that

8 min16 Jun 2026

Ingredients

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics: molecular weight is everything

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics: molecular weight is everything. At the Walker Formulation Academy school, we are convinced that understanding the chemistry of an ingredient is the foundation of conscious formulation, and hyaluronic acid is one of the best examples of how molecular structure determines everything. In the human body weighing 70 kg

10 min11 Jun 2026

Ingredients

Hyaluronic acid in cosmetics: molecular weight is everything

A 70 kg human body contains about 15 grams of hyaluronic acid, and the majority of this supply is concentrated in the skin. Not in the joints, not in the eyes, but in the dermis, where it retains water, supports the matrix structure, and literally determines whether you look your age or not.

10 min4 Jun 2026

Ingredients

Surfactants in cosmetics: what lies behind the texture of your cream

Have you ever wondered why a cream for £30 and a cream for £300 can contain almost identical active ingredients, yet feel completely different on the skin? It’s not brand magic. It’s about the molecules that stand between oil and water. Literally. Surfactants.

9 min3 Jun 2026

Ingredients

Superpeptides: how machine learning is changing collagen and skin peptides

When scientists from the University of Manchester and the No7 brand announced the creation of a 'superpeptide', the cosmetic community reacted with mixed feelings: some spoke of a revolution, others of marketing. But behind the loud headlines lies some truly interesting chemistry. We are talking about a fundamentally new approach

9 min20 May 2026

Ingredients

Neuropeptides in cosmetics: skin peptide reviews, mechanism of action, and formulation

Peptide cosmetics are no longer a niche topic: today, they are one of the fastest-growing segments of active ingredients. But while signal and matrikine peptides are already well-known to cream formulators, neuropeptides — and especially melanocyte-stimulating compounds — remain a gap even for ex

9 min16 May 2026

Ingredients

Fatty acids in skin oils: how an oil's composition determines its effect in a formula

When a formulator chooses an oil for a formula, the first question is usually: "Is it light or heavy?" But behind this subjective feeling lies precise biochemistry. Fatty acids in skin oils are the molecules that determine everything: absorption rate, oxidative stability, and barrier properties.

9 min10 May 2026

Ingredients

Emulsifiers in cosmetics: how to choose the right one and not ruin your cream

An emulsifier is the ingredient without which a cream turns into a separated liquid within just 24 hours. It is what holds water and oil together, forms the texture, determines the skin feel, and, in many ways, the stability of the entire formula. Nevertheless, choosing an emulsifier remains one of the most common ch

9 min2 May 2026

Ingredients

Peptide serums for skin: mechanism of action, types, and formulation rules

Peptide serums for skin have long moved beyond being a marketing trend: today, they are one of the most technically complex and, at the same time, effective classes of cosmetic products. For a formulator who wants to work consciously, rather than just “adding a peptide according to instructions”, it is important to understand what they are

8 min28 Apr 2026

Ingredients

Essential oils for facial skin against wrinkles: chemistry of action and formulation rules

When it comes to anti-ageing cosmetics, essential oils for facial skin against wrinkles occupy a special place: they simultaneously attract with their "naturalness" and raise questions for those who understand chemistry. Can volatile aromatic compounds really influence collagen synthesis, neutral

10 min24 Apr 2026

Ingredients

Super-peptide for skin: how British scientists rewrote the rules of anti-ageing chemistry

When it comes to the best skin peptide available today, the answer is no longer limited to classic Argireline or Matrixyl. In 2024–2025, a group of scientists from the University of Manchester, in collaboration with the No7 brand team, introduced a matrix super-peptide complex capable of

9 min14 Apr 2026

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