Articles

Useful material on cosmetic chemistry, ingredients and growing your business

Formula stability: tests you should do at home

6 accessible stability tests for home formulators: visual assessment, Freeze-Thaw, thermal stress, pH control, centrifugation, and microbiological testing. Detailed protocols, result interpretation, and a minimum starter kit.

12 min16 Mar 2026

#stability

Science

Stabilizing anhydrous emulsions: advanced techniques

Analysing the stabilization mechanisms of W/O emulsions.

15 min10 Mar 2026

#stability #emulsions #lab technique

For beginners

From Kitchen to Cosmetics: A Practical Guide to Food-Grade Ingredients for Home Formulators

Which kitchen ingredients can be used in homemade cosmetics: starches, xanthan gum, honey, oils, citric acid, oats. What to avoid: milk (why it curdles), raw eggs (science vs. myths), fruits. Signs of spoilage, safety tips.

25 min3 Mar 2026

#safety

Science

Xanthan and guar gums: comparison, synergy, and the unexpected winner

Xanthan vs. guar gum: charge, rheology, and suspending properties. Experiment: 0.8% guar + 0.2% xanthan = maximum viscosity. Gum synergy, test gel formula at pH 4, and practical recommendations.

8 min3 Mar 2026

#rheology

Science

pH in cosmetics: a basic guide for formulators

Why pH is important in cosmetics: the skin's acid mantle, the working range of preservatives and actives, how to measure and safely adjust pH. Step-by-step protocol, pH table by product type.

10 min2 Mar 2026

#pH

Ingredients

Triethyl citrate: how the main active ingredient in natural deodorants works

An in-depth analysis of triethyl citrate (TEC): enzymatic hydrolysis by skin esterases, release of citric acid, and inhibition of odorogenesis. Dosages for sticks, creams, and sprays, compatibility with baking soda and magnesia, and 4 ready-to-use formulas.

14 min2 Mar 2026

#actives #oils and butters

Science

Preservation in cosmetics: why a single preservative won't save your formulation

A detailed guide to preservation systems in cosmetics: preservative groups, pH dependence, effective combinations, challenge test, and practical recommendations from Oksana Walker.

15 min2 Mar 2026

#preservation #emulsions

Ingredients

Polymorphism of butters: why cocoa butter is temperamental and how to work with it

We explore why melted cocoa butter can become brittle, crumbly, or develop a whitish bloom after cooling. How α, β', and β crystal forms affect the texture, stability, and skin feel of your butters and balms — and how proper tempering solves most problems.

12 min2 Mar 2026

#oils and butters

Formulas

Shampoo for dogs and cats: what every pet lover should know 🐶🐱

We break down why human shampoo isn't suitable for pets, which ingredients to look for, and how to make a gentle shampoo at home

10 min2 Mar 2026

#surfactants #hair care

Science

Glucono-delta-lactone → Sodium gluconate: how to make a buffer for an emulsion

How to neutralize glucono-delta-lactone (GDL) to sodium gluconate: ratio of 1 g GDL = 0.225 g NaOH, step-by-step procedure, practical example for 10 g, how to incorporate the buffer into an emulsion.

8 min2 Mar 2026

#pH #emulsions #lab technique

Science

Sunscreen products: a complete guide for formulators — why DIY SPF doesn't work

Why you shouldn't make sunscreen at home: physical filters, emulsion types, the role of the base and film-formers, the '1% ZnO = SPF 1' myth, and the architecture of professional formulations

25 min2 Mar 2026

#sunscreen #SPF #zinc oxide

For beginners

Anhydrous Products: A Complete Guide for Beginners

Learn everything about anhydrous products — from basic principles to your first recipes.

8 min1 Mar 2026

#for beginners

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