Articles

Useful material on cosmetic chemistry, ingredients and growing your business

How to make cream at home: a complete guide to DIY cosmetic formulation

DIY cosmetic formulation is not just a hobby: it is a precise science that requires an understanding of emulsion chemistry, raw material properties, and technological processes. If you want to learn how to make cream at home so that it is stable, safe, and truly effective for the skin, this article will be your starting point.

9 min6 Apr 2026

#lab technique #oils and butters #emulsions

Science

Preserving clay masks

Preserving clay masks: the science of microbiological control and the role of glycols At the “Walker Formulation Academy” school, we are convinced that a deep understanding of ingredient chemistry is the foundation of professional formulation development, and preserving clay masks is one of the most illustrative examples of how mineral

11 min30 Mar 2026

#preservation

Formulas

Formula stability: tests you should do at home

6 accessible stability tests for home formulators: visual assessment, Freeze-Thaw, thermal stress, pH control, centrifugation, and microbiological testing. Detailed protocols, result interpretation, and a minimum starter kit.

12 min16 Mar 2026

#stability

Science

Xanthan and guar gums: comparison, synergy, and the unexpected winner

Xanthan vs. guar gum: charge, rheology, and suspending properties. Experiment: 0.8% guar + 0.2% xanthan = maximum viscosity. Gum synergy, test gel formula at pH 4, and practical recommendations.

8 min3 Mar 2026

#rheology

For beginners

From Kitchen to Cosmetics: A Practical Guide to Food-Grade Ingredients for Home Formulators

Which kitchen ingredients can be used in homemade cosmetics: starches, xanthan gum, honey, oils, citric acid, oats. What to avoid: milk (why it curdles), raw eggs (science vs. myths), fruits. Signs of spoilage, safety tips.

25 min3 Mar 2026

#safety

Science

pH in cosmetics: a basic guide for formulators

Why pH is important in cosmetics: the skin's acid mantle, the working range of preservatives and actives, how to measure and safely adjust pH. Step-by-step protocol, pH table by product type.

10 min2 Mar 2026

#pH

Ingredients

Triethyl citrate: how the main active ingredient in natural deodorants works

An in-depth analysis of triethyl citrate (TEC): enzymatic hydrolysis by skin esterases, release of citric acid, and inhibition of odorogenesis. Dosages for sticks, creams, and sprays, compatibility with baking soda and magnesia, and 4 ready-to-use formulas.

14 min2 Mar 2026

#actives #oils and butters

Science

Preservation in cosmetics: why a single preservative won't save your formulation

A detailed guide to preservation systems in cosmetics: preservative groups, pH dependence, effective combinations, challenge test, and practical recommendations from Oksana Walker.

15 min2 Mar 2026

#preservation #emulsions

Ingredients

Polymorphism of butters: why cocoa butter is temperamental and how to work with it

We explore why melted cocoa butter can become brittle, crumbly, or develop a whitish bloom after cooling. How α, β', and β crystal forms affect the texture, stability, and skin feel of your butters and balms — and how proper tempering solves most problems.

12 min2 Mar 2026

#oils and butters

Science

Glucono-delta-lactone → Sodium gluconate: how to make a buffer for an emulsion

How to neutralize glucono-delta-lactone (GDL) to sodium gluconate: ratio of 1 g GDL = 0.225 g NaOH, step-by-step procedure, practical example for 10 g, how to incorporate the buffer into an emulsion.

8 min2 Mar 2026

#pH #emulsions #lab technique

Formulas

Shampoo for dogs and cats: what every pet lover should know 🐶🐱

We break down why human shampoo isn't suitable for pets, which ingredients to look for, and how to make a gentle shampoo at home

10 min2 Mar 2026

#surfactants #hair care

Science

Sunscreen products: a complete guide for formulators — why DIY SPF doesn't work

Why you shouldn't make sunscreen at home: physical filters, emulsion types, the role of the base and film-formers, the '1% ZnO = SPF 1' myth, and the architecture of professional formulations

25 min2 Mar 2026

#sunscreen #SPF #zinc oxide

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